Semiotics of fashion

"The semiotics of fashion is the study of fashion and how humans signify specific social and cultural positions through dress. Ferdinand de Saussure defined semiotics as 'the science of the life of signs in society'. Semiotics is the study of signs and just as we can interpret signs and construct meaning from text we can also construct meaning from visual images such as fashion. Fashion is a language of signs that non-verbally converse meanings about individuals and groups. ... Roland Barthes was a semiotician, who studied the fashion system and how ideologies are transmitted through dress. The semiotic system is formed by social interests and ideologies, and the fashion system is no different. In our society the ideologies in fashion are often implemented by celebrities or the dominant class. Jackie Kennedy was an important style icon for American women during the 1960s, where her style became a symbol of wealth, power and prestige. ..."

W – Semiotics of fashion

The 10 best Nick Cave love songs


"When it comes to Nick Cave, love might not be the first thing people think of. When he emerged on the music scene in the late 1970s with The Birthday Party, the group were considered a wild card, violent troupe. For a long time, Cave was more interested in rage than romance. But as time wore on and things changed, it became clear that no one could write a love song with such splendour as he could. But these aren’t typical love songs. While others might sing about lust and longing through the lens of relatable scenes, Cave casts the feeling onto a whole other, divine plane. His love songs treat the emotion like an apparition from above or something genuinely otherworldly as he repeatedly uses religious imagery or calls upon the muses for the right words. ..."

How Does Your State Make Electricity?


"... Overall, fossil fuels still dominate electricity generation in the United States. But the shift from coal to natural gas has helped to lower carbon dioxide emissions and other pollution. Last year, coal was the main source of electricity generation for 18 states, down from 32 states in 2001. But experts warn that a shift to natural gas alone won’t be enough to curb emissions and avoid dangerous global warming. ... We charted every state’s electricity generation mix between 2001 and 2017 using data from the United States Energy Information Administration. Scroll down or skip to your state. ..."

Seamus Heaney Was a Reluctant Radical


"... (Seamus) Heaney went on to contribute to a literary anthology in support of the Irish antiwar movement at a time when Shannon Airport was in regular use by the US military, despite Ireland’s vaunted neutrality. 'I oppose this war with a mute passion, a pain of deep anxiety that cannot fiend coherent expression,' Brian Friel, the acclaimed dramatist, stated in his introduction to the volume, adding that there was 'something indeed' about the American aggression that 'offends the notion of what it is to be fully human.'  ... If the discernment was characteristic of Heaney, this was perhaps less true of the forthrightness and antagonistic tenor of his political positioning here. ... Beloved by several generations of readers for the human depth and fluent craftsmanship of his poems, Heaney also had a permanent seat at the court of power. ..."



How One Harlem Block Became a Symbol of Urban Despair and Hope

Commuters mix with drug users on 125th Street in Harlem where several major transit lines converge.

"Thousands of people walk along 125th Street between Park and Lexington Avenues each day and most do not linger. Commuters race to catch trains to Westchester, climbing up to the elevated Metro-North tracks. Others hurry down to the subway, bound for Midtown Manhattan or the Bronx. They pass through a scene that conjures up all the worst stereotypes of urban disorder: closed storefronts, litter, public drug use, people nodding out. But on a deeper look, the block also reveals an ecosystem filled not just with despair, but fortitude and empathy, too. Drug dealers. Drug users. Teachers. Doctors. Counselors. Police officers. ... Every borough in the city has a place like this one, where urban woes seem to cluster. In the Bronx, it’s the commercial hub around 149th and Third Avenue. In Queens, parts of Jackson Heights. ..."



Some stores have not survived the rough conditions of East 125th Street, while others have.

Two Niles To Sing A Melody: The Violins & Synths Of Sudan (2018)


"...  In Sudan, the political and cultural are inseparable. In 1989, a coup brought a hardline religious government to power. Music was violently condemned. Many musicians and artists were persecuted, tortured, forced to flee into exile — and even murdered, ending one of the most beloved music eras in all of Africa and largely denying some of Sudan's gifted instrumentalists, singers, and poets, from strutting their creative heritage on the global stage. What came before in a special era that protected and promoted the arts was one of the richest music scenes anywhere in the world. Although Sudanese styles are endlessly diverse, this compilation celebrates the golden sound of the capital, Khartoum. ..."





Turbulence and Pulse - Asher Gamedze (2023)


"Cape Town, South Africa-based drummer Asher Gamedze explores relationships of time between music and history on his new album Turbulence and Pulse, out May 5th 2023. Gamedze’s critically-acclaimed debut album Dialectic Soul was released at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic in July 2020. Around the release of that record, with friend and writer Teju Adeleye he organized and participated in a joint online discussion 'Poesis,' with historian Robin D.G. Kelley and others. One of the notable comments made in this session was by the poet and scholar Fred Moten, who described Gamedze’s drumming as an 'amazing interplay between turbulence and pulse. Pulse is supposed to regulate and also be regular, but the turbulence underneath it and on top of it, it’s just extraordinary.' Moten added that this concept is a fundamental element of the percussive approach in Black music more broadly. ..."





Inside the Very Big World of Really Tiny Things


"Michael Hogan says he isn’t an interior designer. And yet, he spends a good deal of time doing what most in the trade do: deciding on material palettes, sourcing furniture, and planning room layouts. The only difference? No one will ever live in his designs—they’re only a few inches big. About eight years ago, Hogan won a Lawbre Rosedawn dollhouse—which he says is considered the 'Cadillac of dollhouses'—in an online auction. He thought decorating it would be a fun, one-time project, but nearly a decade later, he is fully invested in the wonderful world of miniatures. 'As a kid, I always loved design and architecture, so this is the perfect hobby,' he says. Miniatures are nothing new. Most reports date them to the Egyptians, who would make small-scale replicas of gods, buildings, and other artifacts to place in tombs, believing they’d travel with the deceased to the next life. ..."


Inside the Secret Negotiations to Free Evan Gershkovich


"Russia freed wrongly convicted Wall Street Journal reporter Evan Gershkovich as part of the largest and most complex East-West prisoner swap since the Cold War, in which he and more than a dozen others jailed by the Kremlin were exchanged for Russians held in the U.S. and Europe, including a convicted murderer. Gershkovich and other Americans left Russian aircraft at roughly 11:20 a.m. Eastern time. at an airport in Turkey’s capital, Ankara. Gershkovich then was transported to an aircraft lounge on a Turkish bus. He and the other Americans boarded an aircraft to the U.S. 'They are safe, free, and have begun their journeys back into the arms of their families,' President Biden said in a post on X. Biden plans to greet Gershkovich and the other Americans at Joint Base Andrews in Maryland, where they are expected to land around 11:30 p.m., the White House said. Vice President Kamala Harris is also expected to attend. ..."





Accused Sept. 11 Plotters Agree to Plead Guilty at Guantánamo Bay

Nearly 3,000 people were killed in the attacks of Sept. 11, 2001.

"The man accused of plotting the attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, and two of his accomplices have agreed to plead guilty to conspiracy and murder charges in exchange for a life sentence rather than a death-penalty trial at Guantánamo Bay, Cuba, prosecutors said Wednesday. Prosecutors said the deal was meant to bring some 'finality and justice' to the case, particularly for the families of nearly 3,000 people who were killed in the attacks in New York City, at the Pentagon and in a Pennsylvania field. The defendants Khalid Shaikh MohammedWalid bin Attash and Mustafa al-Hawsawi reached the deal in talks with prosecutors across 27 months at Guantánamo and approved on Wednesday by a senior Pentagon official overseeing the war court. ..."




People visiting the Sept. 11 memorial in Manhattan on the anniversary of the attacks last year.

A People's History of Football - Mickaël Correia (2023)

Boys playing football in London on April 8, 1950.

"... Undeniably the beautiful game has of late become especially ugly. In A People’s History of Football, French climate journalist and Le Monde diplomatique correspondent Mickaël Correia argues that things have not always been this way — or at least not to such a grotesquely indefensible extent. The world’s most popular sport has an alternative, 'antiestablishment' history, which Correia seeks to uncover and defend. Though he dwells on the 'subversive aspect' of football, Correia is hardly a romantic. ... A People’s History of Football left this reader with the melancholic sense that an adversarial and popular vision of the game is quickly disappearing. It’s now unimaginable that a player would, as Brazil’s midfielder Sócrates did in 1984, justify their move to an Italian club by saying that doing so would provide them with an opportunity to read Antonio Gramsci in the original. ..."





The Criminalization of Solidarity: The Stop Cop City Prosecutions

IWW rally on May Day 1914 in New York City in solidarity with Colorado miners

"Georgia’s sweeping and political application of conspiracy law echoes a tactic that shattered the left roughly a hundred years ago, when the U.S. government targeted socialist parties and militant unions with laws against criminal syndicalism, espionage, and sedition. ... A two-year occupation of the Weelaunee Forest, the site of the proposed complex, ended in early 2023 after police killed a forest defender known as Tortuguita and, over several months, charged forty-two people with domestic terrorism. The majority of those charged were attending a protest music festival in March while property destruction occurred nearly a mile away. In April, three activists distributing fliers about the police murder of Tortuguita were arrested and jailed for almost three months. ..."

Who Were The I-Threes? Revealing The Powerful, Unique Voices Behind Marley’s Music


"... But few backing vocal groups had as strong a pedigree as Bob Marley’s trio of confirmation vocalists, The I-Threes. The I-Threes became an official part of Bob Marley’s organization in 1974. Their inclusion came in the wake of the break-up of The Wailers – a vocal group comprising Marley, Peter Tosh, and Bunny Wailer. Tosh and Wailer had quit the group, feeling that they were being sidelined while Bob was being groomed for rock stardom at their expense. So Bob recruited his wife, Rita, who had been singing with The Wailers for the best part of a decade, along with Judy Mowatt and Marcia Griffiths, to form The I-Threes. Their role was to sweeten and emphasize the message in the songs.  ..."



Babylon Berlin


"Babylon Berlin is the most expensive German television drama ever made. It’s also the most successful, with its depiction of Weimar Republic-era Berlin having been shown in more than 100 countries worldwide. Since its early seasons this detective noir show has exploded with colour, razzle-dazzle, danger and sweeping set pieces, and it has now spent five years vividly bringing to life a decade-long flash of chaotic democracy that ended in economic turmoil, corruption and, ultimately, fascism. With its superb opening titles, breathless, trippy pace and extravagant song-and-dance numbers – last season even saw a turn from Bryan Ferry, singing a German jazz version of his song Bitter-Sweet – heady, dangerous times have never been better depicted. This season, the feel of the show has become even more menacing. ..."







Moka Efti, one of several glitzy nightclubs 

Beach Scene by Degas, 1869-70


"There’s a radical new informality to this scene of the 19th century seaside. A girl who has been swimming rests while the family maid combs her hair – the kind of natural moment you would look long and hard to find in any British painting from the time when Degas painted this beach in northern France. By 1874, the experimental daring of Degas and others would be labelled Impressionism. But this is not a simple “impression”. On a closer look, a family walking in beach robes look like formally posed figures from a 15th century fresco and a couple by the shore are posed like cartoonish cut outs. Degas said he finished the picture in his studio, not on the beach. It is a provocative blend of observation and irony that shows his rare and elusive artistic mind."

Robert Lighthouse Brings the Blues to a Ravaged Ukraine

Jamming in Kherson while the Russian army bombs the city: Robert Lighthouse on guitar, "Shoe Man Max" blowing harp, and a street musician on a homemade drum.

"Over more than 40 years of playing blues around the world — from a Hopi reservation in Arizona to Norway, Kenya, and his native Sweden guitarist Robert Lighthouse had never heard Bob Dylan’s ballad 'John Brown.' This nettled the 60-year-old, a disciple of American music who’d thought himself familiar with the whole of the legend’s vast catalog. Simple and plaintive, 'John Brown' is a deceptive anti-war song, beginning as a patriotic fairy tale narrated by a young soldier’s proud mother. ... In late March 2024, Lighthouse returned from his third tour of Ukraine, where he played Robert Johnson, Blind Willie Johnson, Isaiah 'Doctor' Ross, and original songs for beleaguered locals and exhausted soldiers. Back in suburban Washington, D.C., where he has lived for close to 40 years, Lighthouse was surprised to learn that the song he’d written about the carnage in Ukraine closely resembled the one Dylan had recorded in 1962, at the Gaslight Cafe, on MacDougal Street. Lighthouse’s cris de coeur is called 'If They Won’t Book You in Heaven', and the lyrics, in part, go like this. ..."

44 1/2 at a Glance: Selections from the Art Zoyd Box Set


"... Trying to make France's Art Zoyd fit into a single neat description is an exercise in futility. Sometimes they're fiendish sonic saboteurs bent on destroying listener's preconceptions about the way music works. Sometimes they're musical sorcerers conjuring strange but bewitching moments of lyrical beauty. You could call them the original post-rock band, moving on from the dark, stormy sounds of prog legends like Magma and King Crimson to something that makes even those fearless explorers sound conventional by comparison. You'd be equally accurate in dubbing them avant-classical composers, whose experimental visions are influenced by Stravinsky and Schoenberg. ..."


Black Metropolis: Upholding Sugar Hill’s Radical Tradition - Greg Tate (1987)

Lenox and Malcom X New York Harlem Shuffle, Ed Gray

"... In effect my man had mojoed his way onto Central Park West, and I took his lore to heart when I could finally afford to discriminate between boroughs and pull-out beds, between rent-stabilized buildings and sleeping bags on floors where friends had set out the welcome mat. But while my friend sought door­men and oft-swept streets, I put my mojo to work on squatting me down in Wash­ington Heights. My reasoning was simple: That was where I’d found my kind of party people. We’re talking about that 25-to-35-year-­old posse of race-conscious black profes­sionals and community organizers whose politics are Pan-Afrikanist (if not just pro-black) and whose idea of culture with a capital K is Fela, Funkadelic, and later for all the black conservative bullshit. They all went to Howard, Columbia, or City College together and came up ho­meys in Harlem, the Bronx, or do-or-die Bed-Stuy. ..."


Stompin' at the Savoy: The Original Indie-Label 1944-1961


"This four-disc overview of Savoy Records masterful achievement in issuing jump blues, R&B, doo wop, and proto-rock and soul records is one handsome collection. There are 84 tracks spanning the years 1944 (two years after Savoy went into business) and ending in 1961. While the majority of cuts were originally issued on Savoy, there are more than a few that come form one of Savoy's acquisitions -- of National in 1957. Here, the relative unknowns, such as Miss Sharecropper, the Dreams, and Chuz Alfred are side by side with Hot Lips PageBilly EckstineJoe TurnerDoc PomusWild Bill MooreNappy BrownJimmy Scott, and Big Maybelle just to mention a few. The first three discs here are arranged from 1944-'47, 1948-'51 1951-'55, 1955-'61 and are governed simply by subjective selection. The remastered sound is fine, warm and true and the liners annotate each track in detail. Savoy has been issuing compilation CDs for a long time now, but they've never done anything as fine as this -- especially for the budget price. ..."



How Do You Restore a Chestnut Forest or an Apple Orchard? Very Slowly.

At the New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill, in Boylston, Mass., the grafted heirloom apple trees are already big enough to bloom. But fruit isn’t expected for a few more years.

"'Explore what’s in bloom now,' exclaims a banner on the New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill’s website. And, indeed, there is much to see. The dramatic property in Boylston, Mass., includes two conservatories and 18 distinct gardens, both formal and naturalistic. The grounds offer sweeping views across the vast Wachusett Reservoir, as well as hiking trails that tuck into wilder portions of the garden’s nearly 200 acres. As director of horticulture, Mark Richardson is always attuned to the calendar of displays that his team provides to delight more than 225,000 visitors a year. But the garden has two additional compelling botanical projects — the planting of blight-resistant American chestnuts and the restoration of a historic apple collection lost to disease — that don’t show off in the same way. At least, not yet. ..."


The Boylston, Mass., site includes 18 distinct gardens, both naturalistic and formal. The Secret Garden is tucked under grand twin staircases and pergolas.

Staffrider: Transient literatures and maps


"'Staffriders' are young working-class men who hang their bodies on the sides and on top of moving trains. By doing this they are playing with ideas of death and danger in attempting to avoid the electricity and the force of the moving train’s speed that moves the train. Staffriding is rooted in apartheid’s extractive economy and its demand for cheap black labor. Staffriders are the byproducts of an overcrowding influx of human labor moving from platform to platform in a rush against time to stamp their clock sheet ahead of the boss. They live on working-class economic margins, due to their unstable relationship to wage labor which prevents them from affording the cost of a train ticket. Overworked, underpaid, and with dompasses controlling their mobility, these young men respond to their precarious status by taking chances with time. ..."




Chaos and Confusion: Tech Outage Causes Disruptions Worldwide


"Airlines grounded flights. Operators of 911 lines could not respond to emergencies. Hospitals canceled surgeries. Retailers closed for the day. And the actions all traced back to a batch of bad computer code. A flawed software update sent out by a little-known cybersecurity company caused chaos and disruption around the world on Friday. The company, CrowdStrike, based in Austin, Texas, makes software used by multinational corporations, government agencies and scores of other organizations to protect against hackers and online intruders. But when CrowdStrike sent its update on Thursday to its customers that run Microsoft Windows software, computers began to crash. ..."


Musique Automatique : Königssee


"This one is quite simple, I'm using a technique Loopop showed in his video a few weeks ago :    • Sampler trick: Steve Reich/William Ba...   The idea is to use your tracks as virtual tape loops to get intricate and evolving patterns. ... Since this technique doesn't rely on the sequencer, I don't press Play at the beginning. Instead, I press a MIDI trig key that triggers a slow fade-in on the Pattern Volume (this is done with the MIDI loopback). The 8 loops are already playing freely in the background, not synchronized in any way. To get more variations on the long run, the volume of each track is very slowly modulated by a LFO. Tracks come and go, sometimes collide or leave room for each other. It's pretty cool to observe I think. ..."


DONALD TRUMP’S FIRST TERM IS A WARNING


"This week, Republicans have tried to rewrite the four years of Trump’s presidency as a time of unparalleled peace, prosperity and tranquility: 'the strongest economy in history,' as Senator Katie Britt of Alabama put it. The difference between Trump and Biden? 'President Trump honored the Constitution,' said Gov. Kristi Noem of South Dakota. Gov. Glenn Youngkin of Virginia offered Mr. Trump’s first term as an example of “common-sense conservative leadership.” The record of what Mr. Trump actually did in office bears little resemblance to that description. Under his leadership, the country lurched from one crisis to the next, from the migrant families separated at the border to the sudden spike in prices caused by his trade war with China to the reckless mismanagement of the Covid pandemic. And he showed, over and over, how little respect he has for the Constitution and those who take an oath to defend it. For Americans who may have forgotten that time, or pushed it from memory, we offer this timeline of his presidency. Mr. Trump’s first term was a warning about what he will do with the power of his office — unless American voters reject him. ..."

A Sense of Rebellion


"A Podcast Series by Evgeny Morozov. Original music by Brian Eno. Forget the military or Silicon Valley: we owe our smart technologies - from toothbrushes to beds - to a band of eccentric 1960s hippies. Hidden away in a secretive, privately funded lab on Boston’s waterfront, these visionaries developed intimate, personal technologies a decade before Steve Jobs. But their rebellion was fraught with obstacles: the military-industrial complex, corporate resistance, and the founders’ larger-than-life personalities. As Silicon Valley adopted their ideas, the lab's vision for more humane and diverse technologies was twisted into something entirely different. A decade in the making, this podcast unravels their captivating and often tragic tale. It's all here: Cold War psychiatry, Maoism, LSD, the Rockefellers, Scientology, CIA’s forays into extrasensory perception, and even the advent of tech libertarianism. ..."


 
 

Move Over, La Guardia and Newark: 18 Artists to Star at New J.F.K. Terminal

Global and rising talents at Terminal 6 (clockwise from top left): Charles Gaines, Laure Prouvost, Kerstin Brätsch, Nina Chanel Abney, Felipe Baeza, Eddie Martinez, Dyani White Hawk, Nevin Aladag.

"John F. Kennedy International Airport’s new Terminal 6, scheduled to open in 2026, will host installations by 18 contemporary artists hailing from seven countries, the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey announced on Tuesday. The $4.2 billion facility in Queens will showcase the largest number of works of any New York airport by major figures from the United States, including Nina Chanel Abney, Teresita FernandezCharles Gaines and Barbara Kruger, alongside emerging international talents such as Felipe Baeza from Mexico, Kerstin Brätsch from Germany, and Uman, born in Somalia (all now living in New York). ..."

How Spain ruthlessly exploited England’s lack of collective quality at Euro 2024


“Spain were worthy winners of the Euro 2024 final, but the investigation from England’s perspective should not be about how their opponents in Berlin were better on the night, but how they were so much better for the entire tournament. If you were to rank the 14 team performances by those two sides at this competition, in order of quality, you would list the seven by Spain and then the seven England ones. That was the extent of the difference. Spain impressed and enthralled in each game. They had weaknesses, like every side, but those weaknesses generally arose from their bravery and their commitment to attack. …”


‘It was inhuman’: Why the Copa America final was delayed and dangerously close to disaster

“The black gates at the southwest entrance of Hard Rock Stadium had been closed for one hour and 45 minutes when a young child was hoisted on a guardian’s shoulders amid the crush of people waiting to get in for the CopaAmérica final. The boy waved his hands toward the police officers and security guards standing next to the lone door that was opening to let people into the stadium. He put his hands together as if in prayer, pleading with them to let him in. …”

NY Times/The Athletic

NY Times/The Athletic: Fox’s Copa America final coverage showed network is incapable of covering off-field turmoil(Video)

NY Times/The Athletic: Argentina are special – Copa America proves they just win

YouTube: FINAL COPA AMERICA‼️ COLOMBIA VS ARGENTINA 

Turing test

"The Turing test, originally called the imitation game by Alan Turing in 1950, is a test of a machine’s ability to exhibit intelligent behaviour equivalent to, or indistinguishable from, that of a human. Turing proposed that a human evaluator would judge natural language conversations between a human and a machine designed to generate human-like responses. The evaluator would be aware that one of the two partners in conversation was a machine, and all participants would be separated from one another. The conversation would be limited to a text-only channel, such as a computer keyboard and screen, so the result would not depend on the machine’s ability to render words as speech. If the evaluator could not reliably tell the machine from the human, the machine would be said to have passed the test. ..."

W – Turing test

W – Alan Turing

Slate: A Computer Program Finally Passed the Turing Test?

Guardian: What is the Turing test? And are we all doomed now?

YouTube: The original “Turing Test” paper is unbelievably visionary

WOOL Urban Art Festival 2024: Celebrating a Decade of Street Art in Covilhã

Mário Belém. Wool 2019 Editon. Covilha, Portugal. June, 2024. 

"The WOOL Urban Art Festival, held annually in Covilhã, Portugal, is a renowned celebration of street art that has been transforming the city walls since its inception in 2011. This festival, sponsored and organized by a dedicated team committed to promoting social, cultural, and economic transformation through public art, has become a pivotal event in the urban art calendar. Covilhã, a city with a rich history in the wool industry, provides a unique backdrop –  with its steep cobblestone streets and historic architecture, offering a perfect canvas for murals and installations. 


Daniela Guerreiro. Wool 2024. Covilha, Portugal. June, 2024.

40 Years of Experimental Dub Label On-U Sound Records: Nine Essential LPs


"By the time he was 21, Adrian Sherwood had already made several attempts at launching a record label. Sherwood—then a young London producer and DJ working with reggae and post-punk bands—co-founded Carib Gems, a label created to distribute Jamaican recordings locally, followed by Hitrun, through which he began to release some of his own productions. Then came 4D Records, briefly. It wasn’t until his fourth try, On-U Sound, which he co-founded with Kishi Yamamoto in 1980, that Sherwood ended up parlaying his love of reggae and dub into what he calls his 'life journey.' ..."