"A new sound wafts through the open windows at night in this town near the front line: children hollering at each other down the block, even long after dark.The markets are full. Sales are surging at the local bike shop. Red tulips, planted by hand, are bursting open everywhere. It is remarkable — ‘Unrecognizable,’ one city official said — how different this small town in eastern Ukraine feels from a year ago. Last summer, Pokrovsk was a spooky landscape of boarded up houses and bushy yards. No one was around. Now it’s hard to take a few steps without passing someone on the sidewalk. Nothing has changed outside Pokrovsk. The front line is still 30 miles away. Ukrainians are still dying in droves. One of the biggest armies in the world, that of the Russian Federation, is still bombing cities while they sleep and trying to take as much territory as it can, at a terrifying cost. ...”
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